Written By LE BOOK
Some people watch fashion. Others read it. Osama Chabbi belongs to the second category the rarest, the most valuable. Founder of Reviewed by Osa, an interview platform dedicated to the creative minds of the industry, he has built in just a few years something genuinely singular: a space for thought in a landscape saturated with instant reactions and disposable opinions.
What makes Osama so distinctive starts with his background. Before fashion, there was geopolitics. A path that might seem paradoxical but one that explains everything. His gaze is not that of a fan, nor even a connoisseur. It is the gaze of an analyst. "The socio-political context is the backdrop of a fashion show," he says. And when he describes Demna's Gucci show in Times Square as a "brutal portrait of an America losing its dream," you understand that for him, a collection is never just a collection.
The Art of Saying Nothing Before Saying Everything
Osama Chabbi does not believe in instant opinions. He watches a show. Then he watches it again that same evening. Sometimes a third time. This deliberate slowness traces back to Oum Kalthoum whose music filled the air in his grandmother's home and to her songs, which only let her voice in after twelve minutes of instrumental introduction. "There is a beauty in contemplation, in waiting, in silence before you begin."
A philosophy that cuts sharply against the relentless pace of social media, and one that Reviewed by Osa embodies to its core. His ritual before attending a show? Not talking about fashion. "I like to arrive with an empty mind."
An Obsessive Visual Grammar
What fewer people know is that Osama is also the artistic director of his own interviews. He chooses the chairs, signs off on every frame, oversees the colorimetry "I direct the edits, I don't edit myself," he clarifies and once rehearsed a Kim Kardashian shoot down to a two-and-a-half-minute countdown. On his sets, which bring together between ten and fifteen people, the composition rarely changes: the subject seated on the right, Osama standing on the left, same outfit, same light, same ceiling height. He only takes the seat on the right on rare occasions, almost exclusively for women Amina Muaddi, Michèle Lamy, Pelagia Kolotouros among them.
He describes himself, with disarming candour, as "a psychopath." The kind who tests chairs for squeaks. Who keeps a spare pair of black socks in his kit, because you never know. Who, on the Victoria Beckham shoot, had exactly one window to get it right and did.
Encounters That Change a Gaze
Reviewed by Osa has welcomed Michelle Lamy, Kim Kardashian, Jacquemus, Victoria Beckham, Willy Chavarria. Each time, Osama arrives with the same conviction: that humanising a creator is the only way to truly understand their work.
He remembers Michelle Lamy, as they were about to sit down, asking him: "What is so important to say that it requires us to take a seat?" A gentle slap. An invitation to reconsider the whole exercise. "It almost made me feel that the moment we were trying to capture was very superficial compared to the human exchange she had in mind."
And perhaps that is the heart of the project: not to capture figures, but to document presences.
There is something deeply rooted in family memory running through Osama's journey. For Osama, Alaïa became a tutelary figure. "My spiritual grandfather." Not merely a symbol of success, but a symbol of rigour, discipline, and possibility for everyone who comes from a world that does not predestine them to fashion. "He was the man who represented what was possible to me." That invisible thread between origin and ambition, between what we inherit and what we build, runs through everything he does.
If he could sit across from anyone, living or dead, it would be Alaïa, not to talk about his dresses, but to ask the one question no one ever asked: Did you know you were a living myth? And if he ever had to write a break-up letter to a designer? To Demna, perhaps. Not out of indifference, but because break-up letters are only written to those you truly loved.
Ask Osama about his favorite TV series, and the answer arrives without hesitation: Desperate Housewives. "It marked me for life," he says, with the kind of warmth usually reserved for the most cherished of memories. His fascination with Bree Van de Kamp, fastidious, armoured, endlessly contradictory, says something about the way he sees people: as constructions, as characters, as the sum of what they reveal and what they conceal. "Each of those women had a piece of us," he reflects. "They are the image of many things we all carry."
It is a small detail, perhaps. But it is a revealing one. Because Reviewed by Osa, at its best, operates on exactly that principle: finding, in a designer, a show, or a conversation, the fragment of universal truth hiding inside the specific. The Wisteria Lane of fashion criticism, you might say polished on the surface, extraordinarily complex underneath.
In ten years, Reviewed by Osa may look different. But it will still be a platform where opinions and ideas meet. He is certain of it. And listening to him speak with the precision of a lawyer, the warmth of a storyteller, and a joyful seriousness that never takes itself too seriously so are you.